The final leg of my 6-day Austrian Destination Summit was dedicated to a seldom visited region in Austria – Burgenland. This area, located in the eastern-most part of Austria, is coveted for its culinary, wine, musical and outdoor activities. Bordered by Hungary and populated since WWII by people from formerly eastern block countries, Burgenland is relatively new to tourism from english-speaking regions, and is a wonderful mix of cultures. This is definitely part of the charm.
As we traveled through Burgenland, I could not stop thinking about how it reminded me pre-1990’s Sonoma Valley, CA. The scenery, food, wine and family-run businesses were all familiar sites:
Deutschkreutz: Well respected for its red and full-bodied white wines, we stopped at a winery for a lovely three-course wine pairing lunch. Like many wineries in the region, Winery Igler/Schaflerhof is family-owned, friendly, uber-modern and sits within the Pannonian basin.
Need proof of the region’s wine quailty? Check out Robert Parker Wine Advocate which awarded a 2009 Blaufrankisch 95 points.
Also keep an eye open for a new-comer in the wine scene: Gruner Veltliner (originated in Austria, but is now grown by U.S. wineries as well). If you live in the San Francisco area, check out The Slanted Door (Ferry Building). They have an impressive wine list which pairs perfectly with their flavorful dishes (and notice the nice selection of Austrian wines).
Raiding: This town is the birthplace of Franz Liszt and houses a museum and new concert hall in his name. The curator of the museum provided us with a brief history lesson of this child prodigy (and apparent sex symbol of his time). This was followed by a mini-concert in their new concert hall. For Liszt fans, 2011 represents the 200th anniversary of his birth, so there will be many exciting events taking place in Raiding.
Stekovic Family Farm: Coming from Northern California, I really enjoy artisanal foods. So this family farm really hit the spot for me – homegrown tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers turned into yummy snacks. Not only did we get to knosh on the product, we received a bit of a lesson in how to best grow tomatoes (hint: do not water them). By the way, I shared these goods with friends over Christmas, and they absolutely loved their beauty and unique flavors.
Rust: This 16th century village is well known for its stork nests on the chimneys. Not only that, it is full of incredibly colorful townhouses with Baroque and Renaissance facades. After a brief walking tour, we had a fabulous wine pairing lunch at family-run Restaurant Hofgassl (be sure to check out the video). Housed in a 17th-century building, this culinary experience was capped off by a visit from the award-winning Feiler-Artinger Winery owner (who happens to live next door).
Eisenstadt: This charming little town (and capital of Burgenland) would be a good place to stay for a couple of nights while you go visit the surrounding countryside or partake in one of the many music festivals. During our brief stay, we enjoyed a fun tour of Schloss Esterhazy. Joseph Haydn was prince Esterhazy’s music director for over 40 years, so his presence is strongly felt in this palace. The entrance of Schloss Esterhazy epitomizes Austria: Traditional setting, injected with interesting modern elements. We ended our Eisenstadt tour at the beautiful and incredibly unique baroque Bergkirche, where Haydn’s mausoleum can be found.
Neusiedl: Our final dinner was at the authentic family-run restaurant, Restaurant Nyikospark, known for its excellent seasonal and local food. They also own a small hotel which offers lovely simple (and cheerfully bright) rooms and for those so inclined, cooking classes. Best yet: You first go visit local farms to source your menu!
The Burgenland region is made for the outdoor enthusiast as much as the food / wine / music enthusiast. In addition to swimming, biking, hiking and sailing, you can take the thermal waters (again, just like Sonoma Valley). An outstanding place for this is St. Martin’s Therme & Lodge. Here you can enjoy numerous spa treatments, go on a Night Discovery Tour in the National Park (animal tracking or star gazing) or just enjoy the array of birds which stop here on their way to or from the Serengeti in Africa. I really enjoyed the modern touches of this place and loved the various thermal water areas (particularly sitting outside at night with the color of the water changing around me and the full-moon shining above).
A friend of mine recently told me she and her husband are going to participate in the Ironman Race in Klagenfurt Austria (July 3, 2011). As an Austria specialist, I can make putting together a trip around an event like this seamless, enjoyable and unique. Let me know if I can be of assistance!
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